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Scheurebe – an aroma-packed discovery

Scheurebe celebrated its centenary not long ago, having been created in 1916 as a cross between Riesling and Bouquet blanc. Its creator, Georg Scheu, lent his name to the grape (Scheurebe = Scheu’s vine), which has intense aromas reminiscent of Sauvignon blanc. However, Eva Vollmer – a German winemaker in Rheinhessen who has made the variety her speciality – claims it has a more delicate and subtler flavour than its better known counterpart. Germany is the main growing area, with around 1,500 of the total 100,000 hectares planted with Scheurebe.
Scheurebe is by no means as prestigious as Riesling, Sauvignon blanc or Chardonnay. «It does fill a niche brilliantly, though,» say Vollmer. Often described as a diva, the demanding varietal requires high-quality soil. It does not tolerate too much richness, preferring calcareous and loess soil instead. Wine made from older vines has a pronounced mineral quality. Picking the right time to harvest is also important. As with Sauvignon blanc, Scheurebe should not be harvested too early or too late. This is the only way to ensure that the wine does not develop aromas that are too pronounced and overpowering.
Eva Vollmer has ambitions for her wines and therefore pays great attention to maturing. She is not afraid to try an unconventional approach, either. For example, she first aged Scheurebe in acacia barrels in 2018. By doing so, Vollmer is trying to create a new Scheurebe style – dense, but not woody, exciting, elegant and with a bouquet that is not too exuberant. The producer has created a special limited edition – Edition Peter Keller – that is exclusive to Mondovino. The result is compelling in every way and proof that Scheurebe can be taken to the next level, when it becomes an exciting alternative to the more popular varieties. And it also proves once again that the diversity of the world of wine never ceases to astonish.