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Peter Keller introduces the wine country Germany at Mondovino.

Germany – the country that offers the best balance between price and enjoyment

Distinguished British wine writer and Master of Wine Jancis Robinson was once asked who she would like to share a glass of German wine with and why. She replied: “I’d like to share a glass of one of the many great Spätburgunders now being produced with Lalou Bize-Leroy of Domaine Leroy to show her there is life outside Burgundy!”
This remarkable statement shows that German wines no longer need to hide away from the great names. There has certainly been a noticeable shift towards quality wine production in recent years. I would even go so far as to say that Germany has become the country that offers the best balance between price and enjoyment. Where else can you find a Grand Cru for between 40 and 60 francs a bottle? Certainly not in the aforementioned Burgundy, where no Grand Cru costs less than 100 francs. Not only that, Germany is difficult to beat when it comes to mid and lower price-bracket wines too.
The Spätburgunder – the German name for Pinot Noir – mentioned by Jancis Robinson is the country’s benchmark red. In total, red grapes occupy one third of Germany’s 103,000 hectares of vineyard. Whites account for the rest. The most important variety is Riesling, the country’s undisputed showcase wine. It is produced in all 13 wine-growing regions, from Baden in the south, throughout the pace-setting Mosel, Rheingau, Rheinhessen and Pfalz areas and in the less well-known vineyards of Saale-Unstrut. Rieslings are available in all qualities and styles, from dry to medium sweet and sweet. What's more, the grape is capable of perfectly expressing its terroir. However, German wine is much more than just this classic. Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc are as much a feature of German vineyards as the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc that are grown throughout the world. Of the country’s indigenous varieties, Scheurebe is the stand-out grape.
Whites predominate in the winery of up-and-coming Pfalz winemaker Katrin Wind. Her garage operation produces only 20,000 or so bottles a year. She aims to produce unadorned, pure, expressive wines that are specific to their terroir. That she does so ever more compellingly with each passing year is proven by her Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc house wine and higher-quality Landschneckenkalk Pinot Blanc. The new 2021 vintage is available exclusively from Mondovino.
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Sauvignon blanc Fumé Pfalz Katrin Wind

Germany, 2021

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Katrin Wind succeeds in vinifying the aromatic Sauvignon blanc variety in such a way that aroma and flavor do not dominate so penetratingly. Nevertheless, the Fumé 2021 is typical for this variety and somewhat reminiscent of a representative from the Austrian Steiermark. The nose reveals subtle notes of elderflower, meadow herbs and floral hints. On the palate, the dry sauvignon blanc is lean, taut, fresh, juicy, elegant and finishes with a very nice, slightly saline length. The vintage is great, suitable as an aperitif as well as a companion to light fish dishes. Katrin Wind ferments the wine in used barriques, ages it for eight months in small wooden barrels and bottles it unfiltered. It will certainly keep for seven or eight years.


Price per 10 Centiliter
Mondovino Highlights: The pleasure of a fine wine